My travel logs...


Cambodia

Yesterday I came across a travel documentary about Cambodia and it reminded me of my travels to Cambodia some three years ago. Cambodia was a country that has left deep thoughts in my mind ever since I left. Cambodia made me think twice about life and the way that we think. I can still remember my arrival… I travelled by local bus from Bangkok to the Cambodian border: Siem Reap. It was a really long journey at the time, but it was the best way to observe local towns and villages and their people. When I arrived in Cambodia the intense change in society was noticeable. I went from the buddhist flamboyance of Thailand, to the war torn reality of the Cambodian people, it touched me. I will never forget the sad, sorrowful expressions on the people’s faces.

I saw children with missing limbs digging amongst the plastic bottles that foreigners had left, simply just to find a few drops of pure water. I saw old Cambodian men and woman carrying European travelers on their backs across the border because the travelers were too tired to walk. I was confronted by officials that exuded a presence of corruption, however, one must bare in mind that they too, were just trying to lives. The worst thing that anguished me though was a young girl that I saw chained to a bridge in the sunlight, someone had dug her eyes out and trained her to be a beggar. It was truly, an awful, saddening thing to witness, whilst trying to bare in mind that all border towns around the world sometimes show the worst side of a society. Several thoughts went through my mind at the time.

Amongst the saddening presence, a Dutch man – perhaps in his late fifties confronted me in the middle of the dust ridden streets. Nothing about him was descent, he was dirty in every sense. The only thing pure about him were his light blue eyes, they were as blue as clean water. Even his clothes were stained with dirt. My perception made me wary. For the past month in Banglâmphu I had experienced various propositions from foreigners offering the exchange of funds for intimacy, so I was already wary of such characters. The Dutch man’s words were “The Cambodian women here are so cheap and so delicious.” He was the epitome of a foreign user, riddled with the a noticeable lack of dignity or respect. 

While many things in Cambodia were saddening at a first glance, there were other things that were impeccably beautiful about Cambodia and Cambodian people. The Cambodia that I experienced made me aware of life and it’s unpredictability. It reminded me that good can eventuate from bad circumstances, and that even in the most torn parts of the world, some of the most sincere people are the people who have very little or close to nothing. That is the beauty of Cambodia. A lot of people have absolutely nothing, but they have more faith in their hearts than others that have a lot. They’re constantly hoping for the best, even if they receive the worst. The documentary I saw yesterday reminded me of a few good traveling experiences I have had and some of the best, most appreciative people I have come across. 

I recall one of these moments, one year ago in the Pacific… It was my last few days in Le Mandarin and I had a suit case full of clothes and other things. My suit case was so full that I had to sit on it to zip it up for my flight schedule. I stood around in my room for hours, wondering what I was going to do with everything that I had collected, I had so many things and I was afraid of breaking my suitcase. And then I thought of the hostesses at the hotel who had been taking care of my room for the duration of my travels, they were doing their usual cleaning route down the hall way so I asked them to come to my room to pick through some of the things I couldn’t take with me on my flight schedule. I knew they would appreciate it because they were hard working. I had things that I didn’t need, such as expensive clothing from Italy that I wore once ever two years and so I let them take the items. They didn’t know how to thank me, so they hugged me before I left. I can still remember the sense of surprise and the smiles on their faces. I’ll never forget it.

 

When I return to ‘The Gauguin Museum’ in French Polynesia the paintings on the gallery walls remind me of the snippets of life that my family keep closest. Paul Gauguin’s paintings remind me of my parents marriage, they remind me partly of my heritage and they remind me of my families travels around the world.  My father left the Pacific to meet the world, to see cities far and wide…

London, Paris, Delhi, New York and beyond… To taste different cultures, languages, cuisines and  different ways of life… But little did he know… Along the way he would meet his wife too. The ethnic photography model with long oriental hair, dark eyes and a capturing gaze that people couldn’t look away from. They met outside a movie theater in New York City, amidst the New York winter. Perhaps it was a liking at first sight, or perhaps my father couldn’t resist the attention of the woman with noticeable charisma, she liked him too. Little did he know that after a movie and a few coffees… A marriage would transpire. My parents married each other after only knowing each other for a total of four weeks.

After marriage my parents decided to leave for a life in Thailand… Where my sisters grew up. Life in the South East consisted of language, business and travel. My parents communicated in Indonesian for business, Thai for living and French for networking. They travelled to Singapore frequently, and to Malaysia for holidays in Penang, which at the time, was a lot different than todays Penang. Residing in Thailand was a home base, but further was leaping through the Pacific. My siblings spent half of their lives on exotic islands, flitting in and out of aircraft’s. Once a year my family would return to the Pacific, through French Polynesia, my father liked to return at least once a year.

It was in French Polynesia where they came to meet a well known art collector named Robert Casola. One evening after a few glasses of wine at a local restaurant Robert Casola invited my family to stay in his house on the other side of the island, it was a very French Polynesian house built by locals. In his house there was art everywhere, all over the walls. His house was purely a living memorial to art, French Polynesian art. His walls were covered in paintings from the Paul Gauguin period, with the addition of a many, many Tatin paintings, some of which are priceless today.

The story of how my parents came to meet always fascinates me, but nothing fascinates me more than the stories of Robert Casola and his house of art in the French Pacific. My mind goes far beyond the boundaries of creativity when I think of Robert Casola’s house on the coast. Gauguin is to this day one of my favorite artists, not only for his inspiring art work, but for memories I have of all the stories. When I return to French Polynesia I am going to return to the Paul Gauguin museum just to refresh my memory once again.

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